Arranging for passage across Lake Victoria between Mwanza and Bukoba was no small feat. With the usual ferry in dry dock and only a freighter available, my fare would have been outrageously high, were it not for my connections to someone who knew the general administrator for the port authority. On a steamy late afternoon in October, I boarded the MV Serengeti, showed my ticket, and followed the porter along winding passageways to cabin 3. As the sun set in a sky dotted with pelicans, a breeze lifted, and those on deck donned coats.

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